Hvar, Introduction to Croatia

The Dalmatian Coast

 

Hvar

 

Wednesday mid morning we found the tiny island of Hvar, Croatia outside our cabin window.  True to form, we were on the first tender ashore.  Hvar City, which I had never heard of before researching this cruise, is the largest settlement on a small island off the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia.  Its harbor is minuscule.  Large cruise ships cannot dock.  It is a vacation spot mostly for Europeans boasting that it has 310 days of sunshine per year.  A great many Italians seeking a cheap vacation with a lot of partying visit here.

 

The place that is now Hvar City was settled in neolithic times and has been the site of a series of civilizations.  The Greeks settled on the other side of the island at what is now Stari Grad (Old City).  They named the island Pharos.  Hvar is the Croatian equivalent.  The island has been owned by the Venetians, as can be seen in the architecture, the Austrian Empire, Italy and was part of the Peoples Republic of Croatia in Communist Yugoslavia.  Today as part of independent Croatia, its main economic driver is tourism followed by raising lavender, olives and wine making . Hvar City was an important port through medieval times but fell out of favor in recent centuries.  It is having a revival of sorts as a tourism destination.

 

Hvar City's harbor was filled with small yachts and sport fishing boats.  The quay was lined with casual restaurants.  It was here that I first realized that all the ports in the Mediterranean feature pizza as the main tourist food.  All the eating places had essentially the same menus: beer, mojitos and pizza. Truly international! The locals maintain that Croatian pizza is the best. I'll never know.

 

Michael and I took in the sights: the city square, the cathedral, and the gift shops.  We noticed a fort above the city.  Our port briefing said it was built to defend against the Ottoman Turks.  Today it has been restored and can be rented, complete with catering service, for large events.  It was an easy but steep climb to the fortress.  The harbor and city views were breathtaking.  Admission to the fortress was in Croatian Kuna but the attendant cheerfully accepted Euros. There was a small exhibit of artifacts, mostly amphorae, recovered from an ancient Greek ship that had been found at the bottom of the harbor.

 

Our half-day visit to Hvar is an example of a relaxed outing where it's not important what one does.  The point is just to enjoy the experience.  Michael and I had a nice hike, took some pretty pictures and had some interesting conversations with both residents and other tourists.  We were back in time for a late lunch.  Later in the afternoon, we watched the departure from the top deck and enjoyed a cocktail on the deck at the rear of the Panorama Lounge.